As China's commercial capital China tours prepares to host the World Expo in 2010, this megacity of 19 million continues to grow and change at a breakneck pace.
Shanghai is like Tokyo on speed; whilst Tokyo is very polite and ordered, Shanghai is raw and very full on. The driving, especially cabs drivers, are nerve-racking and very funny - you haven't seen so much horn abuse anywhere; everyone seems to have a hair trigger behind the wheel.
The skyline is one of Shanghai's highlights, with developers seemingly looking to outdo each other with Yangtze River cruises the tallest, most extravagant building. Contemporary architecture and countless beautiful skyscrapers compete with the art deco buildings of "old Shanghai" for glory.
It's a tourist mecca, but the Oriental Pearl Tower, actually a TV tower, is worth a visit, or at least a viewing from across the river - the mind-blowing, futuristic Pudong view is best seen from the famous Bund at night.
When the haze of smog and mist clears, the view from the Park Hyatt, business travel to China Shanghai's highest hotel (although set to be overtaken by the building being built across the road), is another must-see.
Looking out from the 91st floor at the sea of buildings below is both thrilling and just a little scary.
When building projects grew scarce in the United States a few years ago, the California architect Shangri-la travel Robert Steinberg opened an office in Shanghai. He says he didn’t understand the city until the night he dined with some prospective clients. “I was trying to make polite conversation and started discussing some political controversy that seemed important at the time,” he recalls. “One of the businessmen leaned over and said, ‘We’re from Shanghai. We care only about money. You want to talk politics, go to Beijing.’ ”
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